- Rv connected battery wrong blew the battery isolator relay full#
- Rv connected battery wrong blew the battery isolator relay plus#
Rv connected battery wrong blew the battery isolator relay plus#
(However, if there is a battery at each end of the line you should have a fuse at each battery.) This principal has applied over the 50 plus years I have been dealing with electrics. The one fuse shouild be close to the voltage source, ie the battery. Having two fuses in the one circuit that connects a battery with a load is pure stupidity. The underlying principle of good circuit design is to keep the number of fuses to a minimum. That is in the tug and should be charged by the alternator when the DC-DC charger is operating. In this case the battery is in the tug" I was referring to the battery supplying the power to the charger. When I said "I would only put a fuse near the battery supplying the load. Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 31st of August 2018 04:24:28 PM Just make sure ,that at no point ,are supply cables rated lower than the fuse Now add the arcing across the contacts each time it trips and resets increasing the resistance and the once rated 50 amp circuit breaker drops to 30 amps or less after 15 mins and useless for the job.Ī 60 amp midi fuse and holder will minimise the poor connection heat generated by many fuse/holder types and have enough overhead capacity to prevent nuisance failures, yet well within the safety limits of the cable it is designed to protect. That is the current required at the supply end on a continuous basis, a 30 amp fuse or circuit breaker isn't going to meet that requirement, even a 50 amp fuse is getting close to its limit and a 50 amp circuit breaker of the type often used by installers for DC circuits most certainly won't handle the heat generated through the bi-metal strip on a long term basis. If the unit will function at a voltage as low as 9v say, then 400w divided by 9v = approx. Add 10% for conversion losses within the equipment and the requirement on the input side is up around 400W. If the DC to DC charger can produce 25 amps 14.4v the output is 360w. It seems many installers have forgotten ohms law when it comes to cable size requirement and fuse rating. 6 B&S cable can handle a 100 amp load without melting or catching on fire so what is the logic in fitting a 30 amp fuse? A fuse is only there to protect the cable run, not the appliance, if the appliance has a fire risk in the case of a short circuit it has its own internal fuses rated to protect against that problem so adding an under rated fuse/circuit breaker in the supply end of the cable is just dumb. The most common problem we have when it comes to DC to DC chargers is the installer using an under rated fuse or poor fuse/holder design or using a circuit breaker rather than a fuse. This is basically a repeat of what has already been posted but for some reason this post got stuck in the pipeline when I shut my computer down yesterday afternoon. To put it simply, rip off unqualified installer. I spoke to tech support as above and that was their instruction. The manufacturer clearly states that the 50amp circuit breaker must be in the van in the ignition feed cable.
The one in the tug should be rated at 50 A. I would be inclined to remove the one in the van. Every fuse you have in line increases the voltage drop a smidgen. The only fuse that is necessary is the one that will blow if there is a fault in the supply cable. Thay do not make readily available fuses that act that quickly. A fuse at the input to the charger will not protect the charger.
I would only put a fuse near the battery supplying the load. Car wiring checked by Autospark and all good.
Rv connected battery wrong blew the battery isolator relay full#
Is the ignition circuit taking the full load ? Amps ?īlowing fuse 30 amp.
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